Well, as you all said, today was a better day :)

With Tunnies help, we got the project all back together, and she starts (and doesn't leak).  EML can on when revving, but a quick tech2 showed I'd left off the plug to rear multiram  :-[

Couple of probs with todays work:

• The rear multiram doesn't appear to work properly - Tech2 tries to activate it, but you can see its not pulling it enough.
  
• There is a whistling noise from plenum, which seems to reduce when you press down on it - I suspect a new set of O rings may cure
  
• The instrument temp gauge seems to be intermittent, not sure why

Any ideas?

Glad to here things went a bit better today! lol

New O rings should sort the whistling, as for the multiram, what do you mean tech2 tries to activate it? Does the butterfly not seem to open fully?

Using my finger, it moves fairly freely. Activating with a tech2 diagnostics tester, it doesn't fully open...

Check that the multi ram flap operates freely by hand - with the whistling noise would be causing a drop in vaccuum at the tank- check that the vac pipes are on the correct way on the tank, check the EGR bkt to plenum aswell - the 3 E10 bolts can work loose on Omega's



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TheBoy wrote on 24. Aug 2006 at 19:46:

Well, as you all said, today was a better day :) With Tunnies help, we got the project all back together, and she starts (and doesn't leak).  EML can on when revving, but a quick tech2 showed I'd left off the plug to rear multiram  :-[ Couple of probs with todays work: The rear multiram doesn't appear to work properly - Tech2 tries to activate it, but you can see its not pulling it enough. There is a whistling noise from plenum, which seems to reduce when you press down on it - I suspect a new set of O rings may cure The instrument temp gauge seems to be intermittent, not sure why Any ideas?

Thanks Geffd. I can move the valve by hand easy enough. So you reckon once I cure the whistling (do you think that it is the O rings?), the valve will operate?

Well done m8 hope u get it all sorted and up and running properly with no faults good luck ;)

Does the valve work if you suck on the feed pipe?

I haven't tried that yet - not a convenient place to suck on it, as it has a tiny U shaped pipe to a t piece...

Spare vacuum pipe with rubber joiner. Connect it to the actuator and suck on the end. Will tell you if the actuator is OK or if the diaphram is split.

The spigot on the solenoid may be cracked and leaking.

TheBoy wrote on 24. Aug 2006 at 19:46:

The instrument temp gauge seems to be intermittent, not sure why Any ideas?

dodgy connection on the sensor in the coolent bridge? it's just a spade connector, check it's on properly.

Last time I had my injectors off, when I put them back on I pushed the connector off and the guage didn't work at all. You should be a ble to see it without taking anything off may even be able to get something down there to give it a bit of a wiggle to make sure it's on properly.

WTH rear multiram, suck on it hard (yes, I know I should get Mrs TheBoy to do that bit ;)), and can't get it to operate. Front multiram is easy.  Pressing the actuator by hand is easy enough, so I'm guessing it needs a new vaccum bit?

TheBoy wrote on 25. Aug 2006 at 10:58:

WTH rear multiram, suck on it hard (yes, I know I should get Mrs TheBoy to do that bit ;)), and can't get it to operate. Front multiram is easy.  Pressing the actuator by hand is easy enough, so I'm guessing it needs a new vaccum bit?

If the actuator moves easily by hand but not when you suck on the pipe then its buggered.
Make sure you have connected to the actuator though and not the solenoid valve.
Usually, the diaphram splits so when you suck you can tell air is leaking in, just like the old Lucas vacuum advance capsules.

I find Mrs Pete to be much better at generating high pressure hot air than sucking.