As a lot know my car is burning oil and also about 7000 miles from a cam belt change.

I have been collecting bits so far I have

Pair heads for reconditioning
3.0 cams
head gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
downpipe gaskets
24 valve seals
oil cooler
oil cooler plate
4 washers
thermostat
coolant transfer pipe
oil filter
head bolts
3.0 inlet divider
water pump
black gunge
grey gunge
green gunge

to get
cam belt kit
aux belt
Coolant bridge seals

Anyway I have removed the valves from the 246 head and cleaned up the inside parts, I need to do the valves themselves and also some mild porting.

I managed to melt my cleaning tub and spent a while pulling bits of icecream tub off the valve springs.

The Mick Dundee thread has pics etc of the work I did.

Today

Bought the 4 coolant bridge washers.

Removed the rest of the stem seals, I took off the cam bearing cap and got in with pliers, altering by 90 degrees breaks the bond with the valve guide.

Next job was to port, I used a file to extend at the bottom, and a B&D Wizard for the top of the port.

Slightly bigger but started to rain, I will finish 246 porting tomorrow.

Had to buy a new stick as my old one had gone missing.

Will get some petrol and wash the head off very soon then start grinding the valves in, the exhaust seats do show signs of wear, just a little but it is there.

Martin Imber wrote on 23. Apr 2009 at 10:50:

...... I managed to melt my cleaning tub and spent a while pulling bits of icecream tub off the valve springs.

You've lost me completely Martin ..... any pictures?  ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D  :y

Andy B wrote on 25. Apr 2009 at 21:16:

Martin Imber wrote on 23. Apr 2009 at 10:50: ...... I managed to melt my cleaning tub and spent a while pulling bits of icecream tub off the valve springs. You've lost me completely Martin ..... any pictures?  ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D  :y

Too busy cleaning it up!

I will take piccies of 135 ;D

OK Thanks to VXL V6 for the loan of his cam belt lock kit, :y now all I have to do is find my cam belt DVD :-[

[quote author=6B4754524F4879171F1014260 link=1240480231/5#5 date=1242413533]OK Thanks to VXL V6 for the loan of his cam belt lock kit, :y now all I have to do is find my cam belt DVD :-[/quote]

Your welcome  :y

Well tonight I did the filing on 135 inlet ports and cleaned the exhaust valves.

Also found I have lost a certain usefull DVD :(

Next dry evening I grind the inlet ports with my B&D Wizard, then grind valves in.

Looks like I start Saturday :-/

Yes I am a bit scared of screwing it up!

Most feck ups are retrievable!  ;)  If you don't have a go you'll never know .

If I do have issues - not sure who is nearby?

Finished porting 135, and washed it all over in petrol.

Next job tomorrow is grind in valves and refit them

Starting the dismantle on Saturday, still haven't found the DVD :(

OK Borrowed the DVD off VXL V6 again :y

Finished the rebuild of 135 tonight, about 20:00 put the last inlet valve back in.

Both heads are ported and have all new seals and are ground in.

Plenum off, bagpipes off, aux belt off.

Currently struggling with power steering pulley - all the bolts are locktighted.

Also the cam cover is broken on the hidden bolt >:(

Water pump is not bad, got a replacement.

Cam belt cover is knackered - broken in a few places, any spare late ones near me?

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 13:08:

Plenum off, bagpipes off, aux belt off. Currently struggling with power steering pulley - all the bolts are locktighted. Also the cam cover is broken on the hidden bolt >:(

obviously you loosen bolts before removing aux belt

Manifold off inlet divider out, now taking off 135 cam cover

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 13:37:

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 13:08: Plenum off, bagpipes off, aux belt off. Currently struggling with power steering pulley - all the bolts are locktighted. Also the cam cover is broken on the hidden bolt >:( obviously you loosen bolts before removing aux belt

I forgot :-[

Cam belt off in 60 BTDC

Now stuck :(

Cannot split exhaust from manifold and cannot get to manifold nuts :(

bit late now, but a good soaking in penetrating fluid last night would have done wonders

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 15:50:

bit late now, but a good soaking in penetrating fluid last night would have done wonders

And the stuff has lost it's pressure

not going my way now!

Head 1 3 5 is loose but trapped by the coolant transfer pipe :(

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 17:26:

Head 1 3 5 is loose but trapped by the coolant transfer pipe :(

coolant transfer pipe is a pain..but you can do it..

need to climb on the engine though.. ;D

and needs a good gasket ..(we also used liquid in addition)

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 17:26:

Head 1 3 5 is loose but trapped by the coolant transfer pipe :(

Coolant transfer pipe needs to come off

CTP trapped by oil cooler pipes - I cannot get a crow foot spanner, so what to do about the cooler pipes?

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:09:

CTP trapped by oil cooler pipes - I cannot get a crow foot spanner, so what to do about the cooler pipes?

it will come off without removing oil cooler pipes normally, but if not, you will need so crowfoot to remove oil cooler pipes

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:14:

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:09: CTP trapped by oil cooler pipes - I cannot get a crow foot spanner, so what to do about the cooler pipes? it will come off without removing oil cooler pipes normally, but if not, you will need so crowfoot to remove oil cooler pipes

Don't have one of those :(

Does anyone near WOrcester have one?

Head 135 is off that pipe is loose

Will be taking off 246 before refitting coolant pipe

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 19:14:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:14: Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:09: CTP trapped by oil cooler pipes - I cannot get a crow foot spanner, so what to do about the cooler pipes? it will come off without removing oil cooler pipes normally, but if not, you will need so crowfoot to remove oil cooler pipes Don't have one of those :( Does anyone near WOrcester have one? Head 135 is off that pipe is loose Will be taking off 246 before refitting coolant pipe

Nope sorry, but there is a Machine Mart in Worcs  :)

My back is now killing me!

VXL V6 wrote on 23. May 2009 at 19:16:

Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 19:14: TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:14: Martin Imber wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:09: CTP trapped by oil cooler pipes - I cannot get a crow foot spanner, so what to do about the cooler pipes? it will come off without removing oil cooler pipes normally, but if not, you will need so crowfoot to remove oil cooler pipes Don't have one of those :( Does anyone near WOrcester have one? Head 135 is off that pipe is loose Will be taking off 246 before refitting coolant pipe Nope sorry, but there is a Machine Mart in Worcs  :)

My transport is in bits :(

Well left it with one head off, lots of plumbing disconnected, loose coolant pipe, thermostat off coolant pipe from thermostat broken off blank bolt.

Oil is draining - so cleaned the rear breather box, but the breather pipe with the valve on has come off from where it was?

Will whip off 246 in the morning (if possible), and then refit 135, coolant pipe, Coolant hoses, heater hoses, and HBV.

I used a spark plug socket on the down pipes, but have no idea how I wil reconnect.

Last job before putting away tools was to start removing the exhaust manifold and first in morning is to fit the new head with the followers.

There is supposed to be something else to move on the heads but not sure what it is.

Restarting in a minute - just finishing my breakfast

Head 246 removed, oil filter removed from top, oil cooler changed, new thermostat fitted.

I am now going to refit head 135. 8-)

Martin Imber wrote on 24. May 2009 at 12:06:

Head 246 removed, oil filter removed from top, oil cooler changed, new thermostat fitted. I am now going to refit head 135. 8-)

:y

135 is waiting until after dinner now

135 is fitted, as are its A & G cams.

Covers to do, oil pipes refitted.

Next job involves the angle grinder when I have found it.

Hot, feeling faint - will not finish today :(

Very interesting posting Martin keep it coming mate

:y

Martin Imber wrote on 24. May 2009 at 15:44:

135 is fitted, as are its A & G cams. Covers to do, oil pipes refitted. Next job involves the angle grinder when I have found it. Hot, feeling faint - will not finish today :(

Get some rest..nobodys keeping chronometer.. :y

Just finished for today about 11 hours and I still have  a lot to do.

Absolute agony - back has gone and lots of cuts on my hands.

Still have plumbing at the back to reconnect, CTP, L/H exhaust, coolant bridge (and I have lost my washers), inlet divider, backing plate, cam wheels, timing belt, inlet manifold, plenum, oil & water Sue is stir crazy and I am well fed up!

I think its a priceless experience :y

plus a good working healthy car as a bonus at the end..

Found the coolant bridge washers.

Still dreading tomorrow - it will be raining later (I hope I finish before)

There alerted - I have requested a Mark DTM - I hope this new feature works!

Have you got a gazeebo? might save you from getting soaked!

VXL V6 wrote on 24. May 2009 at 22:48:

Have you got a gazeebo? might save you from getting soaked!

No - got a caravan though ;D and my garage is too small and too messy.

Restarting in a minute

Firstly bolt up passenger exhaust

Then drop it down

Then cam cover off 135 to check I have cams in correct place

Martin Imber wrote on 24. May 2009 at 22:48:

There alerted - I have requested a Mark DTM - I hope this new feature works!

Dunno what you think youve done, but doubt you will get a response this week ;)

Jimbob wrote on 25. May 2009 at 07:26:

Martin Imber wrote on 24. May 2009 at 22:48: There alerted - I have requested a Mark DTM - I hope this new feature works! Dunno what you think youve done, but doubt you will get a response this week ;)

he's probably in journey.. :-/

Martin Imber wrote on 25. May 2009 at 07:12:

Restarting in a minute ........

At that time? :-? True dedication! :y :y :y ;) ;)

Running, hell a lot of clattery noises, timing is ok, when should the noise stop?. >:(

Martin Imber wrote on 25. May 2009 at 14:23:

Running, hell a lot of clattery noises, timing is ok, when should the noise stop?. >:(

When it blows up?

can take a long time, 30 odd mins to quieten

Mikes still had a noisy lifter at york, till we put in some lifter treatment

It has been running about 15 minutes and it sounds like a few of the lifters on the 135 bank, I have taken it out for a run does not seem to make any difference. :'(

took a bottle of wynns lifter treatment to sort Mike's, I'd give it a day or 2 1st

does it sound like  a death rattle?

no, wasnt that noticable iirc  :-/

Got many pieces left over?

135 is bloody noisy, going to Halfords now.

Is it easy to block the oil way to the head?

Hope your not clutching at straws too early, has the car even got properly warm for a while yet?

Martin Imber wrote on 25. May 2009 at 14:59:

135 is bloody noisy, going to Halfords now. Is it easy to block the oil way to the head?

you got a working engine after all that and you complain about the lifter noise :-? ;D

if I have done all that work, no way your engine will work again ;D :y

Ralttling worse and misfiring now

1500
0339 for starters

P1500   Electronic Throttle Control Motor Failure 

cant find 339 yet

nearest are

P0335   Crankshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction   
P0340   Camshaft position sensor circuit high input 

All the connectors plugged in correctly and in the correct places?

ALl look like it

135 is noisy - not sure if lifters of duff supply of oil

They look quite dry

Can someone post us a picture of a head gasket please?

0339

Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Internittent

webby23 wrote on 25. May 2009 at 16:41:

0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Internittent

Cable looks OK?

I'll worry about those after I have got the 135 head sorted properly.

Runs OK now, not sure if the gasket will last or not, got a spare on the way from Trechii along with the bolts, the tappets survived no oil and so did the cams, head was a little damaged but is OK.

Seems to go better, better than it did but not quite right, might just need time to adapt.

Got a few error codes.

1500
0330
1500
1522

Plus some misfire codes from when the evaporator went wrong.

Spanner light is on (bottom left) the one which flashes when you do the two pedal trick.

All left to do is refit scuttle, wipers and reconnect LPG

So my crank sensor might be on last legs?

Hmm more expense!

Just refitted wipers, also fault light has gone out.


One more job is to reconnect the LPG manifold temperature sensor

Did you re use the gasket and bolts Martin?

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:26:

Did you re use the gasket and bolts Martin?

Yes but replacements are on the way

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:28:

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:26: Did you re use the gasket and bolts Martin? Yes but replacements are on the way

Crikey, you'll be a dab hand at changing that 135 head gasket, at this rate  ;D ;D

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:30:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:28: JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:26: Did you re use the gasket and bolts Martin? Yes but replacements are on the way Crikey, you'll be a dab hand at changing that 135 head gasket, at this rate  ;D ;D

It's a pig of a job, got back to bolts out last night, took me about 7 hours to finish today.

Found a few tips.

Don't unbolt the exhaust - jack it.

Coolant pipe, unbolt that then the bracket from head.

Undo oil coolant pipes from cooler and they spring up enough to spend 30 minutes a bolt undoing from the back of the block.

I reckon I spent about 1.5 hours alone on this pipe.

My hands are a funny size, quite wide but short fingers.

How do you shift this pipe quickly?

Oil cooler is easy to change if you remove 246 head as you can get to one pipe with a 19mm spanner.

246 is a lot easier to remove, even if you have to saw off the dip stick tube bracket.

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48:

246 is a lot easier to remove, even if you have to saw off the dip stick tube bracket.

Tell me you didn't....  ;D

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48:

Don't unbolt the exhaust - jack it.

I don't quite follow - not sure how not unbolting the exhaust will allow you to remove and re-fit the head  :-/

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:49:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48: 246 is a lot easier to remove, even if you have to saw off the dip stick tube bracket. Tell me you didn't....  ;D

With a modellers razor saw after my minidrill ate all of its arbors.

Ended up removing the blank bolt with an angle grinder, it was loctited in!

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:51:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48: Don't unbolt the exhaust - jack it. I don't quite follow - not sure how not unbolting the exhaust will allow you to remove and re-fit the head  :-/

Why do I need to remove the head, just lift it enough to get the gasket out and back in the correct way up.

To remove the head you have to completely unbolt that big pipe and I can only do that with 246 head removed - my hand size again.

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:52:

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:49: Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48: 246 is a lot easier to remove, even if you have to saw off the dip stick tube bracket. Tell me you didn't....  ;D With a modellers razor saw after my minidrill ate all of its arbors. Ended up removing the blank bolt with an angle grinder, it was loctited in!

did you try plusgas and maybe some heat?
It's an ali thread and ali hole - can't see it being so bad it would break off ?  :-/

At least it runs now, though :y

Is the front link pipe secure now?

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:53:

Why do I need to remove the head,

To ensure it's totally clean, before mating it to the block?  ::)

That pipe can be done with the 246 head in place, it's just a tad fiddly...

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:53:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:52: JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:49: Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:48: 246 is a lot easier to remove, even if you have to saw off the dip stick tube bracket. Tell me you didn't....  ;D With a modellers razor saw after my minidrill ate all of its arbors. Ended up removing the blank bolt with an angle grinder, it was loctited in! did you try plusgas and maybe some heat? It's an ali thread and ali hole - can't see it being so bad it would break off ?  :-/ At least it runs now, though :y Is the front link pipe secure now?

Lots of stuff tried, head was damaged a little, so the correct socket slipped. After removing all of the bits (I snapped off the CTP bracket) I replaced the bolt with normal one and new CTP.

Easier from the front before fitting the cam belt back plate

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:55:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:53: Why do I need to remove the head, To ensure it's totally clean, before mating it to the block?  ::) That pipe can be done with the 246 head in place, it's just a tad fiddly...

It was clean when it went on, on Sunday.

So how do you remove that pipe, I just get loads of cuts and take over an hour loosening and tightening

Oh and I fitted a different 246 which I had refurbed

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:59:

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:55: Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:53: Why do I need to remove the head, To ensure it's totally clean, before mating it to the block?  ::) That pipe can be done with the 246 head in place, it's just a tad fiddly... It was clean when it went on, on Sunday. So how do you remove that pipe, I just get loads of cuts and take over an hour loosening and tightening

Ratchet spanner on driver side bolt - socket and ext. bar on the other....

I think I will keep the old water pump, quite good for 113,000 miles and the old oil cooler.

The cam belt cover is cracked, quite badly, so bad you can remove it without removing the aux belt tensioner.

The oil cooler gunge had a pink colouring next to it, I wonder if that was my coolant leak.

I may fit a replacement cover, but I think the engine was rebuilt before I got the car, but can't work out awhat they did.

One thing though the heads I took off were all goldish colour inside.

JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:59:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:59: JamesV6CDX wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:55: Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 21:53: Why do I need to remove the head, To ensure it's totally clean, before mating it to the block?  ::) That pipe can be done with the 246 head in place, it's just a tad fiddly... It was clean when it went on, on Sunday. So how do you remove that pipe, I just get loads of cuts and take over an hour loosening and tightening Ratchet spanner on driver side bolt - socket and ext. bar on the other....

Which E size was it?

Also I had great difficulty getting a rachet in there.

The thermostat was knackered, CTP scrap, aux belt full of cracks, cam belt kit was OK, but had another 5000 left before changing, might keep as a spare.

Actually I found the cam belt despite being scary quite easy.

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:10:

The thermostat was knackered, CTP scrap, aux belt full of cracks, cam belt kit was OK, but had another 5000 left before changing, might keep as a spare. Actually I found the cam belt despite being scary quite easy.

Not worth keeping a belt kit that's done 35k :y

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:10:

The thermostat was knackered, CTP scrap, aux belt full of cracks, cam belt kit was OK, but had another 5000 left before changing, might keep as a spare. Actually I found the cam belt despite being scary quite easy.

bin that cambelt. Remember 40k max, not that you must use for 40k....

I aim to change mine around 30k-35k, based on when the weather is likely to be nice.  Mine has hit 30k, so will get done this summer...

TheBoy wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:15:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:10: The thermostat was knackered, CTP scrap, aux belt full of cracks, cam belt kit was OK, but had another 5000 left before changing, might keep as a spare. Actually I found the cam belt despite being scary quite easy. bin that cambelt. Remember 40k max, not that you must use for 40k.... I aim to change mine around 30k-35k, based on when the weather is likely to be nice.  Mine has hit 30k, so will get done this summer...

Whats that then????  :D

Did you know that over 4 days only one man had a look at what I was doing, are they all camp near me or something?

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:46:

Did you know that over 4 days only one man had a look at what I was doing, are they all camp near me or something?

Guess so. It's all the Vaseline and bending over the counter at the stealers.  ;D

Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. I bet transport costs them dearly though.

Kevin

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06:

..... Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car.  .......

I'm often asked 'what's up with it' when I have the bonnet up. They don't seem to understand that you can tinker on a car that's not broken down ..... they all have company cars!  :y :y :y

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06:

Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. Kevin

Likewise. Usually disgusted looks - and one commented that I was "lowering the good tone" of the area.... when changing my wishbones on my mum's drive.

JamesV6CDX wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:11:

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06: Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. Kevin Likewise. Usually disgusted looks - and one commented that I was "lowering the good tone" of the area.... when changing my wishbones on my mum's drive.

Short 2 word sentances ending with 'off' generally help!  ::)  ::)  :y  :y

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06:

Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:46: Did you know that over 4 days only one man had a look at what I was doing, are they all camp near me or something? Guess so. It's all the Vaseline and bending over the counter at the stealers.  ;D Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. I bet transport costs them dearly though. Kevin

I wonder how much my rebuild would have cost at a dealers?

Martin Imber wrote on 27. May 2009 at 09:51:

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06: Martin Imber wrote on 26. May 2009 at 22:46: Did you know that over 4 days only one man had a look at what I was doing, are they all camp near me or something? Guess so. It's all the Vaseline and bending over the counter at the stealers.  ;D Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. I bet transport costs them dearly though. Kevin I wonder how much my rebuild would have cost at a dealers?

Mark spent twenty hours on my one, all the parts cost was £295, so fairly easy to work out potentially how much ::)

My parts bill was over £400 as I replaced oil cooler, thermostate and pipe, cam belt kit, aux belt, and second hand refurbed heads (which I did).

JamesV6CDX wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:11:

Kevin Wood wrote on 27. May 2009 at 00:06: Neighbours look at me as if I'm wierd if I'm under the bonnet of my car. Kevin Likewise. Usually disgusted looks - and one commented that I was "lowering the good tone" of the area.... when changing my wishbones on my mum's drive.

:-?

what courage they have ?

they are lucky they dont say this to me.. >:(

One job today - soldered a RC power pack connector (Kyosho or Tamaya not sure who) to the cut LPG cable off the gas manifold.

Runs on LPG again :y

OK here goes

HG still holding out

Got a howl from a belt - must be auxilary belt on wrong way round

panicking listening for noises

fuel consumption at least 10% better, possibly 20%, averaged 23 on a route I struggle to get 20 on (slow lanes)

Pulls better at low revs

top end not happy on LPG needs a remap

higher engine temp on the gauge

As long as it holds out until next weekend 6th 7th when I hope to redo the gasket