i am really getting annoyed at finding a male/female multiplug connector, i need a small one for the indicator wiring on my bike but no ware does what i want, maplins is bloody useless

I am just going to cheat and use a block connector

closest i can find is this....

Bullet terminal & plugs

http://images.maplin.co.uk/100/jh79.jpg

http://images.maplin.co.uk/100/jh85.jpg

Does it need to be plugged? Personally i'd solder and shrink tube it if it doesn't need to be disconnected, far better quality join.

VXL V6 wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:21:

Does it need to be plugged? Personally i'd solder and shrink tube it if it doesn't need to be disconnected, far better quality join.

No has to be plugged, as the whole rear light cluster has to come off to change bulbs.

Unless i make the wiring uber long to allow the cluster to be taken off

take a trip down the scrappy and cut off the ones you want both male and female!! or find someone breaking a motor ?? :y

Omegatoy wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:27:

take a trip down the scrappy and cut off the ones you want both male and female!! or find someone breaking a motor ?? :y

This is for the bike  :)

male/female leccy connectors for the rear light cluster are all corroded.

There's a place that was based in nottingingham that moved to derby that does what you are after.  They were called Merv ? something or other.

Give it time someone will know the link, it has often been mentioned since.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1207454056/0

here you go :y

Also consider CPC and RSS

just having a think, i might extend the wiring, loop it up and tie it up underneath the light cluster.

As long make it long enough to put the cluster on the ground next to the bike that should do the job, also will remove any more corrosion issues.

any ideas what kind of wire would be best to handle low voltage indicator  bulbs?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=wire&source=15

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/home/homepage.php

:y

Kevin

You can actually buy terminal block that plugs together, bought some last year off ebay..... :y

tunnie wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:31:

Omegatoy wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:27: take a trip down the scrappy and cut off the ones you want both male and female!! or find someone breaking a motor ?? :y This is for the bike  :) male/female leccy connectors for the rear light cluster are all corroded.

RC model shop Tamaya or Kyosho connector - for 2 pin

Tunnie,

If you look at this PDF, there are Wurth waterproof multiplug connectors available (P/N 0964 555 10, see page 3):

http://www.harpersraceshop.co.uk/cat5040.pdf

Looking at the homepage, http://www.harpersraceshop.co.uk/, they have London branch.

Nick

How many wires will the connector have (male & female)?
Does it need tobe water proof ?

tunnie wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:31:

Omegatoy wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:27: take a trip down the scrappy and cut off the ones you want both male and female!! or find someone breaking a motor ?? :y This is for the bike  :) male/female leccy connectors for the rear light cluster are all corroded.

yep knew that but there are hundreds of cars with any number of different sized connectors so you could get the one you need easily be it 3 owre 4 wire or 10 wire!! all of which will handle brake lights and indicator voltages easily :y

Omegatoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 08:03:

tunnie wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:31: Omegatoy wrote on 21. May 2009 at 20:27: take a trip down the scrappy and cut off the ones you want both male and female!! or find someone breaking a motor ?? :y This is for the bike  :) male/female leccy connectors for the rear light cluster are all corroded. yep knew that but there are hundreds of cars with any number of different sized connectors so you could get the one you need easily be it 3 owre 4 wire or 10 wire!! all of which will handle brake lights and indicator voltages easily :y

Thats true, did not think about that.... off to the scrappy then :)

right fixed it!

I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs.

So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs!

It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :)

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55:

right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :)

oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X

I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D

A lighter does the trick if you're stuck, you have to be very careful though.  ;) :y

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D

Your mum's hairdyer....

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:04:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21: TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D Your mum's hairdyer....

At the end of the day why is heat shrink so much better than insulation tape??

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:06:

...... At the end of the day why is heat shrink so much better than insulation tape??

It's not if you don't have a free end of wire/cable to slip it over!  :y :y

Andy B wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:20:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:06: ...... At the end of the day why is heat shrink so much better than insulation tape?? It's not if you don't have a free end of wire/cable to slip it over!  :y :y

Just make sure you slip it on before joining the wires together.. :y :y

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:06:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21: TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D Your mum's hairdyer.... At the end of the day why is heat shrink so much better than insulation tape??

In the case of where yours is, its more splashproof for a start

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D

I tend to use the soldering iron  ::)

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:33:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:06: TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:21: TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 18:04: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 16:55: right fixed it! I decided not to use connectors, as i don't have the crimping tools to make the metal connections which actually go in multi-plugs. So i decided to hard wire, i used long lengths which allows me to put the light cluster on the ground when replacing blubs! It actually came out quite well, was surprised by my soldering skills, wrapped it all up in insulation tape, did the same thing for the number plate light, so its all working again  :) oh dear, oh dear, oh dear  :-X I had heat shrink, but nothing to hear it with  ;D Your mum's hairdyer.... At the end of the day why is heat shrink so much better than insulation tape?? In the case of where yours is, its more splashproof for a start

I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring.

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36:

I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring.

Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;)

Kevin

Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 21:35:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36: I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring. Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;) Kevin

;D ;D ;D ;D

It was shagged anyway, i have another much better one  :D

Insulating tape is pretty random at staying stuck!  You just need a hot day with some brands and it goes all gooey and unfurls.

I make a point of offsetting the joins if I think I may have to leave it like that.  Then the +ve and -ve don't touch if the insulation deteriorates..

Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 21:35:

tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36: I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring. Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;) Kevin

Or, knowing tunnies crappy irons, a new cheapo Antex £7 special from craplins

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 22:02:

Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 21:35: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36: I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring. Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;) Kevin Or, knowing tunnies crappy irons, a new cheapo Antex £7 special from craplins

Try Draper Budget.... and thats the good one  ;D

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 22:02:

Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 21:35: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36: I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring. Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;) Kevin Or, knowing tunnies crappy irons, a new cheapo Antex £7 special from craplins

Not the ones where the "tip" is in fact a flat baded screwdriver? about 8mm wide? Ideal for SMD then. :-X

Kevin

Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 22:53:

TheBoy wrote on 23. May 2009 at 22:02: Kevin Wood wrote on 23. May 2009 at 21:35: tunnie wrote on 23. May 2009 at 20:36: I wrapped up each cable after i soldered them together, then wrapped both together, i continued it up the main cable. I also used an old wire from a soldering iron! The tip was broke so i cut off its power cord, and used that to extend the wiring. Beats buying a new tip any day.  ;) Kevin Or, knowing tunnies crappy irons, a new cheapo Antex £7 special from craplins Not the ones where the "tip" is in fact a flat baded screwdriver? about 8mm wide? Ideal for SMD then. :-X Kevin

In an effort to repair a router, I have used one of those massive antex bits on SMD. Tedious, but possible...