Omega 3.0 Elite (1998 'R') 155,000Miles.

As per thread title.

Paperclip tested the Barge earlier to determine why the EML is showing itself (All temperatures and driving styles, never goes out).

Code 59 - Intake Manifold Valve 1 Voltage Low.


Which Valve is Numero Uno? Is it the one at the front of the engine before the Ram setup, or is it the awkward bugger at the back?  Am I completely wrong in assuming it is one of these two valves at fault?

Anyone know how to fix this problem? Is it a case of replacing the unit, or can some cleaning / servicing be done to clear the problem?

TIA!  :y

Number 1 cylinder is the front drivers side  :y

Darth Loo-knee wrote on 25. Dec 2009 at 18:21:

Number 1 cylinder is the front drivers side  :y

Cheers Darth.  I dont think my problem relates to the Valves inside the engine though, or am I being a complete Dunce?  ::)

Broomies Mate wrote on 25. Dec 2009 at 18:49:

Darth Loo-knee wrote on 25. Dec 2009 at 18:21: Number 1 cylinder is the front drivers side  :y Cheers Darth.  I dont think my problem relates to the Valves inside the engine though, or am I being a complete Dunce?  ::)

I have re read your post mate, it sounds like your refering to the Multi Rams (this Whiskey is having effects  ;D) and I am miss understanding what your asking sorry :-[ ::)

My head is clear now  ::)

When you rev your car, blip the throttle at around 1000rpm the rear multi ram should actuate, at 4000rpm the front multi ram should actuate.
If one does not then check the small air pipes for a break/rub or burn hole. If the pipes are all fine I would suggest another Multi Ram Solenoid.

Hope that is a little more helpful than last night  ::)
Daz :y

Valve one is the rear multiram - if the plenum has been off recently, it seems to be one people forget to connect

Thanks for your replies.

Neither of the valves move at any engine speed.  They both move freely if I move them by hand.

Whats the next step in rectifying this problem?

Cheers

I dont know if this is relevant, but the EML doesnt appear static.  It flickers.  Not sure if that is what usually happens with the Omega as I've never had a fault before.

After looking at the Haynes Manual Circuit Diagrams, these two valves (solenoids) are on the same circuit as the fuel pump. I can obviously assume the circuit is live, as the car runs and drives fine (if not slightly down on power). Without the fuel pump, i'd be sat on my driveway not going anywhere fast.

So, the Live side is working fine. The other side of the circuit feeds straight back to the ECU.

How can I test to make sure the ECU isn't shot?

First, locate the conector at the back of the plenum, passenger side where you will find a small solenoid valve that it should plug in to. As said, the majority of problems here are due to the connector not having been replaced after maintenance.

If it's OK measure the resistance of the solenoid coil. I would expect it to be a few hundred ohms. If that is OK, check for 12v on one pin of the connector with the engine running, and continuity between the other pin and the appropriate pin on the ECU. I don't have the wiring diagrams to hand but these (back of haynes manual) will show you the ECU pin number and wire colour codes. :y

Kevin

Kevin.  Once again spot on.  The connector was plugged in, but not the the solenoid valve..... it was hanging onto a small piece of plastic which once belonged to the solenoid valve.

I stole the Solenoid Valve from the SAI and plugged it into the Multi-Ram setup.  BANG!  Jobs a good 'un.

Average MPG has shot up from 11.4 to 20.9.  Power has increased and a much smoother power delivery.

Thanks for all your input.  :)

Glad to hear we've got to the bottom of it.

You might find the SAI throws a fault code now, as that solenoid is also monitored. SAI system can be ditched and the solenoid replaced with a resistor to resolve that if necessary. Could be that the SAI relay draws enough current to keep the ECU happy though.

Kevin

Kevin Wood wrote on 29. Dec 2009 at 01:07:

Glad to hear we've got to the bottom of it. You might find the SAI throws a fault code now, as that solenoid is also monitored. SAI system can be ditched and the solenoid replaced with a resistor to resolve that if necessary. Could be that the SAI relay draws enough current to keep the ECU happy though. Kevin

Your knowledge knows no bounds.  :o

Anyways.... I have done 70odd miles this evening, and everything is running as it should.  If I get a code for the SAI, then I'll be tapping your door for the correct value resistor to bridge the gap.

Kevin, I cant thank you enough.  8-)

No problem. :y

Kevin