Here are the symptoms - in no particular order:

1) Still got a kickdown problem

Sometimes when I boot it, it just WONT kick down - others the reaction is delayed, and sometimes it's OK!

2) sometimes at idle, it seems to "miss" a beat - and sometimes after it's been idling for a few mins, you put your foot down to move off, and it misfires for just a second, before then pulling away fine

Plugs and DIS are new, leads are fine.

No fault lights.

I am aware I need a new vacc tank for decent multiram operation - but it stilll feels overly sluggish.

3200 miles have elapsed since top end rebuild.


Thoughts welcome :)

have you checked for air leaks?

First question has to be 'are the vacuum pipes connected where they should be and have not been misplaced on re-assembly? Second is 'are there any vacuum leaks at all? Even a small one is to big and one too many. In correct placement is an easy mistake to make seeing there are so many of them and they all need to be in their correct places to work correctly.
I colour coded all the ends and joints of mine with nail polishes.(No, before you all start I don't bleedin wear it either).
GudLuk

IIRC there's a kickdown switch on engines with a manual throttle. Might be worth making sure it's making contact on WOT.

Kevin

Is that directly under the throttle, kev? - or attached to the cable somewhere?

All the Mig's I've taken apart, I've never come across this  ;D

JamesV6CDX wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 10:09:

Is that directly under the throttle, kev? - or attached to the cable somewhere? All the Mig's I've taken apart, I've never come across this  ;D

No. Me neither. I recall it being under the scuttle panel where the cable emerges through the bulkhead. Not having one myself I've never needed to know.

Kevin

Kevin Wood wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 10:12:

JamesV6CDX wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 10:09: Is that directly under the throttle, kev? - or attached to the cable somewhere? All the Mig's I've taken apart, I've never come across this  ;D No. Me neither. I recall it being under the scuttle panel where the cable emerges through the bulkhead. Not having one myself I've never needed to know. Kevin

Thanks Kev - I wil ldefinately investigate this  :y

is the throttle cable slack on the throttle bodies?

all of ours have been too slack when we 1st got them, causing the car not to be able to rev quite to maximum, easily adjusted.

Jimbob wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 10:14:

is the throttle cable slack on the throttle bodies? all of ours have been too slack when we 1st got them, causing the car not to be able to rev quite to maximum, easily adjusted.

Noo, mine is properly adjusted  :y

James .. if you have access to the "book of lies"   section 7B.6 Section 8 para 32...

:( 


Then Section 4A.3 section 3 ....  :(

I do - but not for a while.... whatsit say?  ::)

Lazy git !!

7B.6 
Quote:

Kickdown switch 32 The kickdown switch is an integral part of the accelerator cable and cannot be renewed separately. Refer to Chapter 4A for details of accelerator cable removal and refitting.

4A
Quote:

1 Working in the engine compartment, unclip the inner cable retaining clip then slide the clip out of the end fitting and release the cable from the throttle cam (see illustration). 2 Free the accelerator outer cable from its mounting bracket, taking care not to lose the adjusting clip (see illustration). Work back along the length of the cable, free it from any retaining clips or ties, noting its correct routing. On models with automatic transmission it will be necessary to disconnect the wiring from the kickdown switch which is built into the cable.

Quote:

Refitting 8 Feed the cable into position from the engine compartment and seat the outer cable grommet in the bulkhead. 9 From inside the vehicle, clip the inner cable end fitting into position in the pedal end and check to make sure the grommet is correctly located in the bulkhead. Check that the cable is securely retained, then refit the heater/ventilation duct and undercover to the facia. 10 From within the engine compartment, ensure the outer cable is correctly seated in the bulkhead, then work along the cable, securing it in position with the retaining clips and ties, and ensuring that the cable is correctly routed. On models with automatic transmission, reconnect the kickdown switch wiring connector making sure the wiring is correctly routed

HTH

:)

Entwood wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 16:02:

Lazy git !!

Cheeky sod.... I'm just not going to be home for several days  :P :P :P

Seriously though Nige - thanks a million mate  :y

JamesV6CDX wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 16:11:

Entwood wrote on 10. Feb 2010 at 16:02: Lazy git !! Cheeky sod.... I'm just not going to be home for several days  :P :P :P Seriously though Nige - thanks a million mate  :y

You are  home I hope well not mine but at your grans :o ::)