Hello again everyone

I have joined the growing club of miggy owners who has the abs and traction control lights on, which indicates that there is a problem with the ABS pump or ECU.

My first query is, which would it be - the pump or the ecu.  When driving in the snow I wasnt getting any abs at all and this was a bit nervy however Im old school and remember driving cars without abs lol.  Would one or the other cause this or is it still hit and miss which one it is. 

Following on from this is, i will be trying to replace the unit myself, not an easy job by all accounts but i will give it a bash. 
I am aware that there are so many different ECU's and pumps for each model.  To take the confusion away from all this I was pondering sending it off to be refurbished instead of buying a used one (Vx new beyond finances). 

If i did this will it come back with all the correct programming for the car or would it need a tech2 session.  Secondly, does anyone know or can recommend a company that does this job and the rough cost that I would be expecting to be charged for the refurb.

Any advice on this would be grafefully appreciated.  ;)

Duane

ABS ECU refurb with a 2 year warranty ...

bba-reman  was around £130 when they did mine 2 years back .. give them a ring ..  01634 687222 

As it is "your" ecu it needs no Tech2 attention .. put it back on and it works fine .. :)

Cheers Entwood  :y,  I take it i send the whole unit, pump and ecu together?

Thanks for the contact details I shall give them a buzz.

Do you have any idea how easy it is refitting the unit.  Should i expect problems with air locks etc or is there any trick or advice for this.

hubbardybubbardy wrote on 14. Mar 2010 at 18:27:

Cheers Entwood  :y,  I take it i send the whole unit, pump and ecu together? Thanks for the contact details I shall give them a buzz. Do you have any idea how easy it is refitting the unit.  Should i expect problems with air locks etc or is there any trick or advice for this.

NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just the ECU ... saves all the hassle of bleeding - which does need a tech2 I'm told.

ECU is tricky to remove simply as access to a couple of the bolts is "awkward"  (read a pain in the ****) but by loosening a few other bits it is doable with patience.

I sent mine to BBA on the monday by courier, they phoned me wednesday to tell me it was fixable and the price, I recieved it back on the Friday. Fitted it Saturday and it all work as advertised.

HTH

That will do nicely Entwood cheers.  I dont mind scraping a bit of skin of the old hands and thanks for advice about not taking whole unit off, it sounds like that would be a right pain in the rear and no doubt i would of if you hadnt said.

I will give them a ring and see what they say.

Thanks again Entwood  :y

No probs .. :)

Have a read here, tells you which bits to move/loosen  to gain access to the final two bolts

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152729807

Make sure the swearbox is either in another county or empty .... it has the potential to get filled up quickly !!!

how do you know it's not a wheel sensor.

In all my time test-driving or when I had the garage - I've never changed either an ABS ECU or a hydraulic "block". I'd class them as spectacularly reliable pieces.

have probably changed a couple of hundred wheel speed sensors tho

2woody wrote on 15. Mar 2010 at 10:28:

how do you know it's not a wheel sensor. In all my time test-driving or when I had the garage - I've never changed either an ABS ECU or a hydraulic "block". I'd class them as spectacularly reliable pieces. have probably changed a couple of hundred wheel speed sensors tho

Valid point. It would be worth getting the car to a Tech 2 to check the ABS ECU codes before condemning the ECU. However, the ECU is a very frequent cause of ABS problems on the Omega in our experience due to a weak internal bonding wire that burns out.

If the speedometer has also failed I would say it's almost certain that the ABS ECU has failed. This is because a single wheel sensor failure would still give the ABS ECU a speed input whereas if the ECU has failed it no longer outputs the road speed signal to other modules in the car.

Kevin

Thanks for the advise, Im still al little unsure as to what the isssue could be, sensors or the ECU unit for the ABS.
Just to add a little more info, every now and then, probably every three or four journeys, the speedo may work and the tc and abs light go off.  This is usually only for a couple of minutes at the most and then its back to normal - warning lights on etc.

Could the ECU still be at fault or is it more likely to be a sensor failure. 

hubbardybubbardy wrote on 21. Mar 2010 at 13:57:

Thanks for the advise, Im still al little unsure as to what the isssue could be, sensors or the ECU unit for the ABS. Just to add a little more info, every now and then, probably every three or four journeys, the speedo may work and the tc and abs light go off.  This is usually only for a couple of minutes at the most and then its back to normal - warning lights on etc. Could the ECU still be at fault or is it more likely to be a sensor failure.

Classic ECU problem .. when mine went it would work for 15 minutes, then stop working for  1hr 20 mins . then start again ... seriously accurate timings ..  !!

All down IMHO to the "internal track failure" and I think the temperature of the internals either made or broke the circuit.

ABS ECU repair and it sorted it fully  :y :y :y

Agreed abs ecu furbared

That will be it then, i was reluctant to fiddle taking it off and sending it off if there was another fault, now i am satisfied that it needs to come off and be sent away.

Thanks all for the advice again and all the best to everyone on OOF, i dont know how i get on without everyones superb advice it saves a fortune especially to someone like me who doesnt mind tackling most jobs but without having the experiance I just need a little helping hand and reasurance.

cheers all.

I got ABS ECU from breakers for £60. Perfect. You need to match the prod code exactly - many variants - otherwise poss problems.