Frick. On a stick.

Ok, car didn't start today and it had the tell-tale signs of a dead battery. Bought a new one from Halfords (rip-off but wanted it quick) and fitted it.
It didn't start up  :'(
The starter motor goes strong, unlike befoere, but it doesn't turn on, even when there are some rumblings.
Computer says 12 miles range left.
Did paperclip and got
0335 = Incorrect RPM Signal
0203 = Injector valve 3 (been a rare intermittent problem before)
1502 = Immobiliser No Signal

What should I do?
How painful is this gonna be?

The 335 is the one stopping you I reckon.

Pop a new genuine crank sensor on, and take it from there.

The 1502 will be historical, they never clear
and if a computer hasnt deleted the 0203 code, that may be old too.

Where are you, someone local may be able to clear out the codes for you and give you a blank canvas. (but DO change that crank sensor)

You may be out of fuel too if it only reads 12 miles.....  drop a can of petrol in and see if it starts up

Jimbob wrote on 15. Jan 2011 at 19:28:

The 335 is the one stopping you I reckon. Pop a new genuine crank sensor on, and take it from there. The 1502 will be historical, they never clear and if a computer hasnt deleted the 0203 code, that may be old too. Where are you, someone local may be able to clear out the codes for you and give you a blank canvas. (but DO change that crank sensor)

I had a feeling about that...
I'm down in Southampton.
What's replacing a crank sensor like? How much is the part? Is it DIYable for a novice?

2.0 16v to 14194716 90458251 £60.50 £54.46 £47.10

 
2.0 16v from 14194717/31000001 9174621 £36.60 £33.00 £28.47

Remove heatshield, remove dipstick tube (push-fit) about 50mm forward of tube hole lives the crank sensor held in by same size torx as heatshield. If you can`t remove by feel alone, remove A/C compressor bolts & swing away for clearance
 

I'm with Guffer on this one. I'd throw in some petrol first and then if no go,  crank sensor.

Thanks peeps. Put some petrol in and no luck so it's not that.
Apart from getting under there with a magnet is there a quicker way of knowing if it's a steel or aluminium sump? I know it swallows a 5 litre bottle of oil when refilling that takes it halfway up the dipstick.

Osaze wrote on 16. Jan 2011 at 18:53:

Thanks peeps. Put some petrol in and no luck so it's not that. Apart from getting under there with a magnet is there a quicker way of knowing if it's a steel or aluminium sump? I know it swallows a 5 litre bottle of oil when refilling that takes it halfway up the dipstick.

Should be about 4.5 litres why go half way up the dipstick?

And how does this sort your current problem?? :-/

I'm not too sure why you need to know, but I think the ali sump is a quite different shape to the steel one.

This is a steel one:
http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/EZ_Pete/100_0502.jpg

davethediver wrote on 16. Jan 2011 at 21:01:

Should be about 4.5 litres why go half way up the dipstick? And how does this sort your current problem?? :-/

Ok, I forget what the amount is in your typical large bottle.

I thought a sump might be identifiable by that. I saw the crank sensors are different depending on the sump:
http://www.vauxcentre.co.uk/index.php?product_id=484928&option=Prod_detail&image_id=189513
http://www.vauxcentre.co.uk/index.php?product_id=484931&option=Prod_detail&image_id=189517

Thing is, Jimbob has already mentioned buying a genuine sensor, Rob G has given you the part numbers by engine number, and the engine number is on the V5 document, I do believe.

That's all you need.  Unless you want to gamble on buying a pattern part.  Note that although they use the word Vauxhall very liberally in their descriptions on that vauxcentre site, when you read the FAQs, the question "Are your parts genuine?" is answered "Yes and no..."  ::)