Just wondering, is there a special tool I need, or can I use my usual misuse of a G-Clamp???

I do believe the piston pops back in the same way the fronts do as the rear shoes responsible for the handbrake are inside the disc where it slots over the hub assembly.
The wind back tool is only required for vehicles that use the disc pads themselves as the handbrake.


PS
Don't forget to unscrew the cap on the brake fluid reservoir, and apply the pressure from the G clamp slowly to avoid blowing seals back on themselves.

Psychoca wrote on 06. May 2011 at 15:28:

Just wondering, is there a special tool I need, or can I use my usual misuse of a G-Clamp???

G clamp, with old brake pad

Thought I could, its just some have to be wound back on the rears for some reason...

I always open the bleed screw as this

a) Makes it much easier
b) Changes the old brake fluid in the caliper
c) Ensures mater cylinder seals are not damaged

Remember the rears have 2 pistons, so 2 clamps required ;D

I find it easier to use the old pad, slightly slacken of the blead nipple to expell old fluid in caliper ,and push the piston back in with a wide jawed oil filter removal wrench.

Wide enough to reach around calliper and using the old pad and a small block of wood to avoid marking the back of the calliper ,just squeeze the clamps jaws togeter and the piston just pushes in.

Fit new pads and then couple of pumps on the pedal with the easybleed one-way tube valve attached to get new fluid into the calliper,top up master cylinder and jobs a good ,n.

Take it easy for first few 100 miles to get the bite back into the pads.

Marks DTM Calib wrote on 06. May 2011 at 15:48:

I always open the bleed screw as this a) Makes it much easier b) Changes the old brake fluid in the caliper c) Ensures mater cylinder seals are not damaged

I think he would be happy to have 2 headlights ;D ;D ;D ;D

I go through pads quite fast but never had a sticking caliper beyond needing to grease sliders on single piston jobs

Martin Imber wrote on 07. May 2011 at 08:55:

I go through pads quite fast but never had a sticking caliper beyond needing to grease sliders on single piston jobs

Rears are more prone to seizing IME... ...kinda makes sense really

everytime i've come to do rear pads they have been stuck fast and needed the mouting bracket removed!

Jimbob pointed me to these:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht268-disc-brake-piston-spreader

They really did the business on a seized piston.

Although I forgot to release the bleed nipple when pushing the pisons back in  :-[  :-[  :-/