hi I'm new to the site and not sure even if this is in the right section. I was wondering about tuning options for the y32se.  What cams works well? If you put in 4 g cams into the 3ltr it has good results does this theroy also apply for the 3.2?  Also within the next couple of months a local guy is making me up equal lenght stainless manifolds and downpipes. Will also be using iridium plugs, magnacor leads, k&n panel filter. 

Any advice welcome thanks

Plug leads - there are none

Exhaust - manifolds flow well on the DBW engines

Inlet is not overly restrictive.

Look at cleaning the flow through throttle body and plenum into inlet manifold.

Cams - someone will know

Compression ratio is low on the DBWs compared to the X pair.

Not sure how to up compression on a DOHC V engine.

Also, spark plugs will make no difference to power output and iridium plugs are really only worthwhile on engines that are very hard on their plugs (very high compression / forced induction).

I would save your money and use the standard GM plugs at a couple of quid each.

The GM panel filter isn't really restrictive (as long as you buy genuine - some pattern ones have much less surface area) and the danger with the K&N type is that they must be oiled to give decent filter performance. With the MAF located close to the filter on this setup, contamination of the MAF is a danger.

The 3.0 V6 could be livened up a little by chipping but the 3.2 has a flash based ECU so a chip swap is not possible. Remaps are available but expensive and there doesn't appear to be much experience of them here.

Ditto with cams, really. Can't recall anyone using uprated cams on a 3.2.

I think tubular exhaust manifolds would be an interesting mod to try, however.

Kevin

Martin Imber wrote on 25. May 2011 at 11:10:

DBWs compared to the X pair.

what is DBW and x pair???

im using magnacore leads for the x25xe engine.  Also have heard that using all G cams or replaceing the j cams for A cams can be good.

I'll defo be going with the manifolds and down pipes as a guy just up the road makes them and there cheap for what they are.  What about forced induction??  I have seen you tube videos i think it was german guys with a x30xe.  Is there much to getting a charger going???  the sound they make are awesome.  Any other advice welcome.

Oh aye, also is it possible to swap the solid steel crank from the z32se into the y32se or are they different in size / stroke etc.

conalnugent wrote on 25. May 2011 at 19:01:

.... what is DBW  ..... im using magnacore leads for the x25xe engine. ....

Drive By Wire ie no throttle cable

You might very well be using super duper HT leads on your 2.5, go outside & have a look under the bonnet of your 3.2 & see if you could fit them to that instead!  ;) As said your 3.2 doesn't have HT leads  :y

conalnugent wrote on 25. May 2011 at 19:01:

Martin Imber wrote on 25. May 2011 at 11:10: DBWs compared to the X pair. what is DBW and x pair??? im using magnacore leads for the x25xe engine.  Also have heard that using all G cams or replaceing the j cams for A cams can be good. I'll defo be going with the manifolds and down pipes as a guy just up the road makes them and there cheap for what they are.  What about forced induction??  I have seen you tube videos i think it was german guys with a x30xe.  Is there much to getting a charger going???  the sound they make are awesome.  Any other advice welcome. Oh aye, also is it possible to swap the solid steel crank from the z32se into the y32se or are they different in size / stroke etc.

and Y26SE

omegas are heavy cars.. and your 3.2 have already   enough power.. imo a power gain of 20-30 hp in addition wont give impressive results on the clock,  so not worth that effort..  if you want something really faster, you need deep pockets and a different engine..

conalnugent wrote on 25. May 2011 at 19:01:

Oh aye, also is it possible to swap the solid steel crank from the z32se into the y32se or are they different in size / stroke etc.

The y32se has the forged crank already IIRC. :y

Kevin

Start with a dam good service, make sure it's running correctly, get it on tech 2 via a member here to confirm multi rams are working, fuel trims are ok, no sensor issues etc etc....

And as said there not a great deal to come from the lump. Lower geared diff. Or another lump altogether.

if i were you id get rid of the multi ram and make up a resonator box like the ones mantzel sell , it really improves its breathing , and remove the cats out of the exhaust too , gives the car a nice growl and allows it to really rev more freely , actually i seen a set of decat pipes for an omega v6 on ebay at the moment which just bolt on so no messing
not sure if its ended yet

320704460753 is the item number just found them with a quick look , better than binning your own cats and being in trouble for mot time no bids on em yet either :y

id also see about getting alloy rocker covers from the vectra 2.5 v6 engine too , i had plastic ones on my omega and they just keep warping and gaskets keep leaking
i put on alloy covers and they have never leaked since they are a much better job and they too crop up on ebay time to time ,
the exhaust manifolds would make a good difference too a lot of companys on german ebay sell them too

If the covers are tightened to 8nm they dont warp, and if the breathers are kept clean they dont leak. ;)

Multi Ram setup produce a far smoother torque delivery across the rev range than a resonator box.

Cam covers leak for a number of reasons either the engine breathers aren't clear, the last idiot who replaced the camcover gaskets used non genuine gaskets, the last idiot who replaced the camcover gaskets overtightened the bolts and therefore warped the covers or the oil pressure relief valve isn't operating correctly due to crap oil service intervals.

its simple as this lads ye can do it the right way by cleaning your breathers torqing your bolts to 8 nm genuine gaskets etc etc and hope it dosent leak ...,.which it will sooner before later as it is a well known fault that they are rubbish, or you can slap on alloy covers like i did on my last two omegas with non genuine gaskets tightned by hand and never again get a leak its up to ye ,
also if this chap was looking for a smooth ride with an even curve bla bla bla he wouldnt be planning on modifying it
bin your dual ram put in a home made resonator box , job done .... may not be smooth but will be a damn lot more responsive for real time driving not plomasing on the motor way ,, tha is my opinion which i can tell you i experienced on MY car before and after and is not your usual hear say rubbish some people on here keep at , keep us updated with your findings ,
its refreshing to see an omega being modified on here , beats the usual topics about maintanence

Ya RESONATOR MAN  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

paulgsi wrote on 28. May 2011 at 21:29:

its simple as this lads ye can do it the right way by cleaning your breathers torqing your bolts to 8 nm genuine gaskets etc etc and hope it dosent leak ...,.which it will sooner before later as it is a well known fault that they are rubbish, or you can slap on alloy covers like i did on my last two omegas with non genuine gaskets tightned by hand and never again get a leak its up to ye , also if this chap was looking for a smooth ride with an even curve bla bla bla he wouldnt be planning on modifying it bin your dual ram put in a home made resonator box , job done .... may not be smooth but will be a damn lot more responsive for real time driving not plomasing on the motor way ,, tha is my opinion which i can tell you i experienced on MY car before and after and is not your usual hear say rubbish some people on here keep at , keep us updated with your findings , its refreshing to see an omega being modified on here , beats the usual topics about maintanence

Alot of miss informed info there, sorry. I'm sure the op will take whatever advice he chooses on what he does with his own car. But remember leaking cam covers are not confined to the omega. Numerous other marques fill thier plug wells with oil and cook the ignition system. The gaskets simply go hard with age and fail. The youngest omega will now be getting on for 8 years old, so until another set up has done similar comparable service life how can it be recommended? Plus the usual breather servicing is important true enough, again not an omega specific issue.  How on earth anyone managed to warp a cam cover given the internal webbing and structure... Seems odd to me, how can they warp?

Many a claim has been made on improving the induction system on here, yet to be proved beyond the classic "more noise equals more speed" . Of course if noise is what's wanted and a peaky uneven power delivery is what's considered an improvement then fine, go for it.

But if a simple biscuit tin plumbed into the inlet was worth while I'm sure vx would have included it, no? Any engine will be affected by emission constraints though so I'd start there, but de catting completely is advice that may not be appreciated come Mot time.

Alloy cam covers will obviously do nothing for performance.  The idea it cures leaks is a bit flawed - cam covers leak due to blocked breathers, poor quality parts, or poor workmanship, otherwise should be good for 7 or 8 years (so 1 set of replacement gaskets in its lifetime).

But if people want that alloy covers, thats fine and the owners choice - but must be made on the facts, not this myth put about by people who cannot fit them that the plastic ones warp (they don't).

If you do fit alloy ones, be aware the next weakest point when the breather system blocks is the crank seal. Thats a bit of a pain to replace, as Vectra owners will confirm.


The multiram is there to smooth out the torque curve. Removal won't do massive amounts for performance, but will make it a more stepped 'surge' with it removed.  The genuine GM filter is probably hard to beat for flow.


There must be some gains with remapping, also would be interested in gains from forced induction

Also the oil filler is far less conveniently placed under the fuel lines on omega.

if you want a decent trustworthy source for a remap then get in touch with John Robbins at DNA Tuning in Stratford upon Avon.

He writes the stuff for other tuners and does oem diagnostics.

I had my Golf 2.3 V5 done there (which also has just about zero tuning options) and the results were fab! Razor sharp throttle and gets rid of the flat sopts and allows it to rev up to the red line much easier - you may need to use 97/99 ron though.

I beg to differ that 20-30bhp will not be noticable! So, why bother having the 3.2 over the 2.6 then? Why bother having the 2.6 over the 2.2 ... OF COURSE 20BHP WILL BE WORTHWHILE!!!!!!!!!!!

To the op - you are asking some indepth questions about tuning options on this engine but appear to know nothing about the basics - read up my friend.

i260 wrote on 29. May 2011 at 12:01:

if you want a decent trustworthy source for a remap then get in touch with John Robbins at DNA Tuning in Stratford upon Avon. He writes the stuff for other tuners and does oem diagnostics. I had my Golf 2.3 V5 done there (which also has just about zero tuning options) and the results were fab! Razor sharp throttle and gets rid of the flat sopts and allows it to rev up to the red line much easier - you may need to use 97/99 ron though. I beg to differ that 20-30bhp will not be noticable! So, why bother having the 3.2 over the 2.6 then? Why bother having the 2.6 over the 2.2 ... OF COURSE 20BHP WILL BE WORTHWHILE!!!!!!!!!!! To the op - you are asking some indepth questions about tuning options on this engine but appear to know nothing about the basics - read up my friend.

how much difference will make 20 hp on a 210 hp 1700 kg car on the clock ?   :-?

you loose some of it on drive train, tires and pressure plate.. let me answer 0.2 - 0.3 at best.. noticeable.. may be .. but the cars that let you in dust , will still  :D ;D

better invest for better tires and smaller gear ratios..

and for the re-map..

get an original turbo car.. you will see the difference on re-map..