get blue leds they last forever and look good, if thats not your thing make sure to replace em all as the others will be on their way.
on my 1996 pre facelift its just a matter of priseing out the centre vents unscrewing the vent holder then the bolt that holds in the clocks, rotate steering wheel 90 degrees off centre and un screw shroud then unscrew the clocks, with the clocks loose pull slightly forward to disconnect the wiring loom then slide clocks out.

If its got climate control first you have to remove the ashtray if I remember correctly its three screws at the rear. Then remove the stereo and cage and at the back of the stereo is an aluminium bar which is difficult to see. I used a long screw driver in the centre of the bar to lever it down this should release the whole centre console allowing access to the bulbs on the climate.

Just had a thought make sure you have the radio and cd code as when you replace the stereo it will ask you for both.

To remove ashtray housing - first remove the ashtray itself, then there is a screw which can be accessed in the middle of the housing. Undo this and then you can pull the entire housing out. There are then two screws behind this which hold the fascia in place, in combination with the (very awkward to get to!) spring-loaded bar mentioned earlier.

It's possible to get at the bulbs (just about) in situ, but realistically you need to prise out all the switches (hazard lights, etc.) - then you can slide down the wiring connections behind the switches and remove them, unplug the connectors from the climate control and you can then remove the entire fascia with the climate control panel. The bulbs are 1.2W, Vx P/N is 90541683 up to chassis no. T1147499, P/N 9120630 from T1147500 onwards.

Prefacelift is easy, but less easy to describe, esp locating the bar.

Anyone near me need it doing, get in touch

btw, change all 5 bulbs together...