Omega Owners Forum - MultiRam checks.

Big Rod Senior Member Offline Posts: 880 Fife, Scotland Gender: Drives: SWMBO mental!	MultiRam checks. 25. Jul 2006 at 15:14 Anyone fancy doing a 'how to' or guide on checking the multi ram system on a V6. Reason I'm asking is that while the wife's 2.5 goes alright, (OK, I'm comparing it with a 3.2!!), but it does seem to be lacking a little. I'm not getting the 'punch' i'd expect as it goes through the 4k mark. So what RPM does the other ram operate at? TIA!
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RonaldMcBurger Ex Member	Re: MultiRam checks. Reply #1 - 25. Jul 2006 at 16:13 I know MarksDTMCalib did one before, I will check if it has been put on the site yet. It was magnificent and very detailed, even if Mark did do it. (quick dig as his is the fastest Omega ever made).
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Big Rod Senior Member Offline Posts: 880 Fife, Scotland Gender: Drives: SWMBO mental!	Re: MultiRam checks. Reply #2 - 25. Jul 2006 at 16:35 Grat guys thanks!
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Marks DTM Calib Administrator Offline Ex Member Posts: 25671 Northern Hemisphere Gender: Drives: Astra J, Mum Bus, Dexta Tractor, 108 DMU wip	Re: Multiram checks. Reply #3 - 25. Jul 2006 at 16:48 Yep, forgot to transfer it from elsewhere. Its an extract from the Vaux college notes: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153840176/0#0 Basically, blipping the throttle should cause the front one to operate, you have to really rev it hard to get the back one to go....
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Phil

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Posts: 697

Re: Multiram checks.
Reply #4 - 25. Jul 2006 at 21:29

Marks DTM Calib wrote on 25. Jul 2006 at 16:48:

Yep, forgot to transfer it from elsewhere.

Its an extract from the Vaux college notes:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1153840176/0#0

Basically, blipping the throttle should cause the front one to operate, you have to really rev it hard to get the back one to go....

Right now im realy confused, i thought the front opened on full load the rear opens on a throttle 'blip'.

This is how my 2.5 works, but i cant get the rear one to move on the 3ltr. The rear solenoid was broken on the 3ltr, i replaced it but it doesnt appear to be working, would it need tech2ing to clear the fault, if there was one, or should it just work??

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RonaldMcBurger

Ex Member

Re: MultiRam checks.
Reply #5 - 25. Jul 2006 at 21:38

Tech 2 won't help. The multi ram is entirely vacuum operated. Chances are that although everything 'looks' right, something is either on wron or a leak somewhere. Be methodical and check all the vacuum pipes one by one. I know from personal experience that it is very easy to get them wrong. My CDX TD Estate nearly went for spares until I discovered I had connected two vacuum pipes wrongly, and as a result bypassed the whol turbo system on it!

Don't rule out the obvious.

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« Last Edit: 25. Jul 2006 at 21:39 by N/A »

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TheBoy Administrator Offline TBE has an MOT! Posts: 64817 Brackley, Northants Gender: Drives: 98 MV6, 03 Elite, 00 25, 89 ZX10	Re: MultiRam checks. Reply #6 - 25. Jul 2006 at 21:42 Tech2 can prove the valves are working - it can manually actuate them without revving the nuts off it.
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TheBoy Administrator Offline TBE has an MOT! Posts: 64817 Brackley, Northants Gender: Drives: 98 MV6, 03 Elite, 00 25, 89 ZX10	Re: MultiRam checks. Reply #7 - 25. Jul 2006 at 21:43 Real Tech2 that is, not the cheapo lead called Tech2...
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sounds2k

Omega Knight

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Posts: 1046
Queenborough, Kent

Re: MultiRam checks.
Reply #8 - 25. Jul 2006 at 23:43

I found on mine that a hard and fast blip of the throttle made the rear solenoid activate (engine did 4k-ish RPM for probably not even a second) - best to make sure the engine's warm first. Seems it's more revs than duration or load that triggered it. When driving there's usually a noticeable change in engine tone when the rear solenoid operates, the engine really starts to roar ...

But check those vacuum pipes and then go for the tech2 option if possible, sounds much safer to me ...

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Big Rod

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Posts: 880
Fife, Scotland
Gender: male

Drives: SWMBO mental!

Re: MultiRam checks.
Reply #9 - 26. Jul 2006 at 11:13

The vacuum reservoir on Senators used to deteriorate and not power the DR butterfly valves.

It's quite an elusive fault. It's not immediately obvious 'cos when you test it with no drivetrain load, the engine generates enough low pressure in the inlet tract to do the business, but under load it doesn't, so when driving the DR butterfly was inoperative.

When you unplug the vacuum pipes at the reservoir, one of them should 'hiss'. If it doesn't, you've either got the tubes the wrong way round or the reservoir's goosed.

JM2PW!

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