Omega Owners Forum - Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt

Tezray

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Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt
24. Aug 2006 at 17:05

Yes, this bolt;

It's one of the bolts that holds the pulley to the water pump....It sheared when i was trying to torque it up....I couldn't find the torque figure in the haynes, just 'coolant pump 25NM' so i torqued it to 25NM! Well, actually i didn't because it sheared first! Luckily i managed to get it out. I suppose i should just go to Vaux and buy some new bolts?

Also, at some point one of the PAS pump thread's has managed to strip itself Angry

It's one of the bolt hole's that holds the pulley to the pump. The other 2 are fine though....Could i just use thread lock on the 3rd bolt? I don't really fancy replacing the pump just because of a stripped thread.

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« Last Edit: 24. Aug 2006 at 22:45 by Admin »

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Marks DTM Calib Administrator Offline Ex Member Posts: 25671 Northern Hemisphere Gender: Drives: Astra J, Mum Bus, Dexta Tractor, 108 DMU wip	Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt Reply #1 - 24. Aug 2006 at 17:16 You may be all right with thread lock. By the way, the torque values are in the maintenance area....and the water pump torque is bugger all.
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rpont

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Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt
Reply #2 - 24. Aug 2006 at 17:19

That's probably because it's a stretch bolt as are the ones for the power steering pulley. You should replace them with new ones.

The coolant pump bolts that are torqued to 25Nm are the ones holding the pump to the block. The pulley bolts are torqued to 8Nm then angle tightend a further 30 degrees then another 30 degrees. It's in Haynes just below the 25Nm for the pump to block.

The power steering pulley bolts are torqued to 20Nm then 30 and 15 degrees.

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Tezray

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Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt
Reply #3 - 24. Aug 2006 at 17:26

That could explain why it sheared then! lol

I didn't think the pulley bolts were that important/accurately torqued, it's not like they're under any/much pressure Huh

I'll get new bolts for the PAS and water pump pulley then, but i'll go for thread lock on the stripped PAS bolt. Cheers for that info, i couldn't find/see the torque values anywhere!

I don't need new bolts for the crank pulley do i? Or the aux. drive belt tensioner? I still haven't got the bloody torque angle gauge Angry

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Martin Imber Over Active Poster Offline LPG Omega V6 - Keyfobs Rebuilt Posts: 20110 Worcester Gender: Drives: 2001 Omega 2.6CD LPG & 3.0 cams	Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt Reply #4 - 24. Aug 2006 at 21:17 ON a car many years ago I was replacing the head and a gust of wind blew the pagfes from engine A to engine B with a lot higher torque values - I did not notice (1/2 way down page) and snapped a head bolt
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Marks DTM Calib Administrator Offline Ex Member Posts: 25671 Northern Hemisphere Gender: Drives: Astra J, Mum Bus, Dexta Tractor, 108 DMU wip	Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt Reply #5 - 24. Aug 2006 at 21:38 I dont replace the bolts....but I dont over tighten them either.
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rpont

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Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt
Reply #6 - 24. Aug 2006 at 21:51

Tezray wrote on 24. Aug 2006 at 17:26:

That could explain why it sheared then! lol

I didn't think the pulley bolts were that important/accurately torqued, it's not like they're under any/much pressure Huh

I'll get new bolts for the PAS and water pump pulley then, but i'll go for thread lock on the stripped PAS bolt. Cheers for that info, i couldn't find/see the torque values anywhere!

I don't need new bolts for the crank pulley do i? Or the aux. drive belt tensioner? I still haven't got the bloody torque angle gauge Angry

It depends on how often the pulley bolts have been stretched before.

Crankshaft pulley bolts are to 20Nm and aren't angle tightened so can be reused if they are in good condition. I can't see a torque for the auxillary belt tensioner pully. Bolts are only a few pence (OK maybe 30 or 40) but a pulley coming off at 6,000 revs can do a lot of damage. I wouldn't expect one to snap once it's in use but I'd rather just change the bolts personally.

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rpont

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Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt
Reply #7 - 24. Aug 2006 at 22:06

Just out of interest I wondered how fast the outer rim of a pulley would be going at 6000rpm.

Assuming a 4inch diameter pulley

circumference = 2 * pi * r so for a 4inch diameter pulley that would be 12.57 inches.

Multiply that by 6,000 (RPM) and by 60 (mins in hour) to get inches per hour. Divide by 36 and 1,760 to get MPH of 71.42.

Does that sound right? I don't know the diameter of any pulleys but I wouldn't like something doing over 70 miles an hour coming loose under the bonnet.

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mr des

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Re: Bloody arsing blank bolt
Reply #8 - 24. Aug 2006 at 22:42

Tezray wrote on 24. Aug 2006 at 17:05:

Also, at some point one of the PAS pump thread's has managed to strip itself Angry

It's one of the bolt hole's that holds the pulley to the pump. The other 2 are fine though....Could i just use thread lock on the 3rd bolt? I don't really fancy replacing the pump just because of a stripped thread.

you could use a heli coil to replace the stripped bolt its basically a replacement thread downside it needs a special tool to fit which maybe u could borrow / rent. they are used in the aviation industry so its not a bodge job

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i want to shine in the eye of orion but i drove my sole through the black hole

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v6man54deg Geffd

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Re: Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt
Reply #9 - 25. Aug 2006 at 07:38

Warning!!!!!!!!

from around 1998 the water pump pulley bolts had patch lock on them - these are the ones you will get from VM - make sure you tap the old patch lock out of the water pump first - or you will shear another bolt - M4 thread.

rpont thread has the correct torque & angle value - original bolts were just done upto 8NM with no loctite - but they had warranty issues - pulleys flying off oops!!!!

Tezray wrote on 24. Aug 2006 at 17:05:

Yes, this bolt;

[img]

It's one of the bolts that holds the pulley to the water pump....It sheared when i was trying to torque it up....I couldn't find the torque figure in the haynes, just 'coolant pump 25NM' so i torqued it to 25NM! Well, actually i didn't because it sheared first! Luckily i managed to get it out. I suppose i should just go to Vaux and buy some new bolts?

Also, at some point one of the PAS pump thread's has managed to strip itself Angry

It's one of the bolt hole's that holds the pulley to the pump. The other 2 are fine though....Could i just use thread lock on the 3rd bolt? I don't really fancy replacing the pump just because of a stripped thread.

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V6 problems solved

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Andy B Over Active Poster Offline Posts: 21988 Bury Lancs Gender: Drives: 1999 3.0 Elite auto/TDM	Re: Bldy asing bstrd bolt* Reply #10 - 25. Aug 2006 at 07:49 v6man54deg Geffd wrote on 25. Aug 2006 at 07:38: .... from around 1998 the water pump pulley bolts had patch lock on them - ..... patch lock? Another term for loctite?
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v6man54deg Geffd

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Re: Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt
Reply #11 - 25. Aug 2006 at 08:07

Yes - but dry type already on the bolt - usually blue or green - also used on other V6 bolts, Adaptor - cylinder heads, splash plate - later oil pumps & thermostat housings.

Andy B wrote on 25. Aug 2006 at 07:49:

Quote:

....
from around 1998 the water pump pulley bolts had patch lock on them - .....

patch lock? Another term for loctite? Undecided

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V6 problems solved

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Andy B Over Active Poster Offline Posts: 21988 Bury Lancs Gender: Drives: 1999 3.0 Elite auto/TDM	Re: Bldy asing bstrd bolt* Reply #12 - 25. Aug 2006 at 08:17 v6man54deg Geffd wrote on 25. Aug 2006 at 08:07: Yes - but dry type already on the bolt - usually blue or green - also used on other V6 bolts, Adaptor - cylinder heads, splash plate - later oil pumps & thermostat housings...... Ahh! That's what you call it. It's not a term I've come across before.
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Matchless

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Re: Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt
Reply #13 - 25. Aug 2006 at 09:57

You can make your own angle gauge.

Cut a circle of card, about 5" diameter.
Mark a bold reference line from centre to edge then use a school protractor to mark more lines at 15,30, 60 and 90 degrees anticlockwise around from the reference line.
Make a hole in the centre which is a snug fit on a short extension bar.

To use it, put the socket on the bolt and take up any slack or slop then rotate the card disc until the reference line lines up with some obvious feature, eg an adjacent bolt, the edge of a casting etc. Then tighten bolt until the required angle marking lines up with the same feature.

Just make sure that the card disk is not going to catch on anything as it turns (this also applies to the bought gauges as well)

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rpont

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Re: Bl**dy a*sing b*st*rd bolt
Reply #14 - 25. Aug 2006 at 11:45

Quote:

Warning!!!!!!!!

from around 1998 the water pump pulley bolts had patch lock on them - these are the ones you will get from VM - make sure you tap the old patch lock out of the water pump first - or you will shear another bolt - M4 thread.

I've seen the patch lock on the new bolts but I wouldn't have thought about cleaning it out of the hole with an M4 tap so thanks for that.

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