My Mig has been giving me major cause for concern this last week - has emptied the header tank of coolant 3 times over no more than a couple hundred miles.

It's always had a lumpt idle/stalling fetish and a rattle on startup, but it longer rattles on startup, just runs on 3 cylinders for 5 seconds.  Strangely it no longer stalls after about 30 seconds idling (badly), but its now drinking water quicker than a fish.  I think the bottom end of the engine isn't too clever either as the regular puffing of fumes from the oil filler cap is more reminisant of a knachered diesel.

I can't see any leaks anywhere, no evidence of any either.  So far, its record is 130 miles before the heater goes cold and the temp jumps straight to the top of the gauge.

My first guess is a head gasket - but don't want to do it if the head might be cracked (I suspect the brown overspray in the engine bay is from a blown rad sometime in the past, given its new-ish appearance).  Plus, given the blow-by, it's looking like a replacement lump.  Oh, and the gearbox doesn't play ball as soon as its warm, either.

ANyone got an engine and auto box lying around, or will a Vectra lump fit...or an Auto Estate going cheap?

Bugger...nearly finished fitting the LPG as well...

Leaving aside the gearbox for the moment - you don't explain how it doesn't 'play ball' so lets take that separately.

You need to give the breather hoses/nozzle/throttle body and ICV a very thorough clean (there is an excellent guide in the Maint guide section).  That should fix the idling and also improve running no end.

Drinking water - are you sure its not a leaking HBV? (round the back and difficult to see)

Fumes from oil filler - don't think that's particularly unusual, esp on a cold day.

What kind of mileage is it?  2L are known for bore wear on no.1 at high miles.

philhoward wrote on 14. May 2008 at 13:15:



Yes but, you need to swap the ancillaries and sump over.

Also, try to get a 1998 or later engine as it has the balance shafts 

Word of caution when using an engine from another vauxhall.  My replacement engine was from a cavalier so can't vouch for the vectra but when swapping sumps, the bolts and threads that connect it onto the block were totally different.  I had to tap the block to fit the old sump on which ain't the brightest of ideas although still going strong.  I'd imagine this won't be the case on a newer engine with the counter-weights.

Anyone vouch that the vectra engine will fit with no problem?

philhoward wrote on 14. May 2008 at 16:36:


Manual will have a spigot bearing, the auto wont......but it can be removed with a bit of brute force if needed (not sure you do need to though).

The later Vec engine will fit with the same sump bolt holes.

Marks DTM Calib wrote on 14. May 2008 at 16:38:

What's a definition of a later Vectra engine?  I'm looking for an X20XEV - is that sufficient?  Or am i looking for a post 98 (eg) Vectra?

How strange that Vauxhall (well, Opel) would do two engines of the same code, with differing sump bolt patterns!

Post 98 Vectra, then...

Think i've found an Omega engine...but carriage will cost more than the engine!