As promised, some pictures from my LPG installation.

Firstly, the bits that make up the kit:



The ECU



The wiring loom



LPG level indicator, switch and warning buzzer



Measurement Tee with vapour temperature sensor and MAP / Vapour pressure sensor



CD containing the mapping software



Cable (USB) to connect the ECU to a PC for setting up



LPG injector rails along with a bag of nozzles to go in the manifold and other assorted fittings.



Vapour filter (also splits the vapour feed to the 2 injector rails).



More fittings, cable ties, etc.



Various pipes for coolant, vacuum, lpg vapour and the liquid feed from the tank



Strip steel of various sizes for making up brackets.

Watch this space for more pictures of the conversion.

NOTE: Vapouriser is not pictured here as it arrived later...

Some more pictures of the nozzles in the manifold:








.. and the swarf that I washed off it afterwards. This is why you don't let a cowboy drill them in-situ.



The "helter skelter" pipe is cut to take the return flow from the vapouriser from the driver's side of the engine.

A 90 degree fitting is used to remove the plumbing that went to the auxiliary coolant pump. (removed to make way for the vapouriser).

HBV and helter skelter in position. Feed to the vapouriser is from the coolant bridge via a 90 degree connector.

Manifold back in place, with LPG pipes on the nozzles.

Plenty of space once it's back in place.

.. add the piggy back wiring for the injectors and it's getting a bit more busy. Cable tray for the original injector loom has been discarded to make space (take care to get all the injector signals the right way round or it's plenum off to correct it later. )


Driver's side LPG injectors installed.

Wiring for RPM feed, power and Lambda sensors runs across the front under the bonnet slam panel and into a hole in the front of the fuse box.

Connectors on the DBW ECUs are fearsome. Best to intercept the wires upstream!



Mounting of the gas ECU under the driver's side wing below airbox where the self levelling pump would otherwise be.



..and, finally, for this instalment, mounting of the level indicator, switch and buzzer. The DBW cars have a handy grommet where the throttle cable would normally be. Very handy for routing the wiring through.

A tidy install Kev, it's all becoming a bit second nature, now

Tidy installation, you should send the pictures to some of the cowboy installers out there.

... and a few more pictures of the rest of the install I took this morning:



Location of the passenger's side injector rail.


Vacuum feed from the neck of the plenum Teed to the pressure sensor and the reference port on the vapouriser.


.. and stand back and see what the engine bay looks like. Not too badly butchered, I hope.


The measurement tee, pressure sensor and vapour filter are visible here, tucked away behind the driver's side injector rail.



And you can just about make out the vapouriser on the driver's side inner wing below the coolant header tank.


Plumbing (coolant and vapour) to the vapouriser from the rear of the engine.



Here you can just make out the liquid feed into the vapouriser and the polyflex hose curled up under the master cylinder to exit the wing through an existing hole near the petrol lines.



Here you can see the liquid pipe from the tank running up adjacent to the petrol lines.


Liquid feed and gauge / gas valve wiring as it enters the boot space, and also two of the tank frame mounting bolts with spacer plates under them (and plenty of waxoyl!).


Other side tank frame mountings. I came out a bit close to a hole in the frame here so an additional bit of metal was fabricated to spread the load.



Filler pipe as it's routed along the towbar. This will need improving! 4 hole filler lines are rubber hose, almost like hydraulic lines with JIC unions crimped to the end. The downside to this is that you need one the right length. 2m was perfect in my case. The kit came with a 1.5m pipe which wasn't going to work.




.. and here's the filler mounted on the towbar. It's ugly but so's the towbar. A necessary evil for me.




The tank.


Wiring for the gauge and tank valve. LPGA state that wiring should be soldered and heat shrink sleeved.


Completed wiring in airtight housing.
You can see the 4 holes in the tank here. From left to right: liquid outlet with tank valve solenoid, Pressure relief valve, gauge, filler valve.


.. and a view from the back seat. This tank is a comfortable fit. Plenty of room all round. A bigger tank would go, of course, but it gets more tricky to fit.

Well, that about covers it.

Kevin

Excellent pics Kevin

I placed my nozzles higher up the trumpet, like some of the older ideas. Will this be ok or is the way you have done it the way to go

Very nicely done, Kevin

Very nice work 

(and good photo's too - good basis for an LPG How to !!)

LPG just keeps getting better ... went to visit our son over the weekend ... Huddersfield ... thought I'd do an accurate check whilst driving reasonably sedately ...

195 miles .... £22.07 cost of gas   (mind you it was cheaper up there than down here ..   )