2.5td manual box has short ratio,s in it? bell housing may need some mods to fit though!!

Best thing you can do is to take the gear ratios for various Omega boxes (some are here:)

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1163895469/0#0

.. then plug them into a gear calculator such as this:

http://westfield-world.com/gtc.html

..and see what you're going to end up with.

The important factor for you is going to be the rev drop between gears. So, look at what speed you will hit your shift point in one gear, then find that speed in the next gear and see what engine speed you'll be doing. This is where you'll be after upshifting, so you can decide if you'll still be in the power or if it'll bog down.

Quote:


Will you have any extra torque? Torque is largely proportional to engine capacity so conventional tuning will just move the torque peak to higher RPM and give you more power. Unless you are going forced induction you won't have significantly higher torque.

Kevin

Marks DTM Calib wrote on 02. May 2011 at 22:02:


now I am really impressed - I have a Borg-Warner T5 sat in the shed ready to go in the track-day car using just that - an auto bellhousing with a welded-on rear plate.

the options as I see it are :-

use a standard gearbox and have done with it

use a Ford type 9 (5-speed) gearbox as per Kev's post

use a Caterham gearbox which is basically a 6-speed type 9

Toyota 6-speed will need a bespoke bellhousing

T56 will need a bespoke bellhousing and is damn near as heavy as the rest of the car ( I should know, I've just rebuilt one )

The ZF box will need a bespoke bellhousing

.... and any bespoke bellhousing I'd trust would be in the order of £2K

there does also come a point where you'll spend more time changing gear than putting down power in the gear.

My previous track-day Omega had a 2-litre gearbox in it from the moment I took the auto out.

reckon they're about the same.

I suspect that there's a lot of shared architecture