my 2.5 has been getting worse recently, there is a noise from the RH bank only on start up and for about 30 seconds, once warm it is almost unnoticeable.

It is getting worse though, now is it the manifold or is it the downpipe gasket, if it's the manifold where does it normally go and can i get it rewelded up

it has only happened recently, there hasn't been any work done on that area so i can only assume that the gasket has died a death....or is dying

It doesn't do it when it is warm, would that be due to the manifold expanding against the gasket?

Jay w wrote on 26. Jul 2006 at 18:58:



Mine seams to have the same problem 

Its less noticable with the climate set to "off"

Before diving into this area, check the corrugated pipe that connects to the EGR valve, I ahve seen them split before.

Would a faulty secondary air valve make a whistle or exhaust leak type sound when the car's under load?

Check the downpipe gasket first. Apparently if they are blowing you can feel it with your hands.

You need a cold engine and someone else to start the car - the downpipes get hot very quickly.

If you do decide to tackle the driver's side manifold - there is a shortcut but it's a bit fiddly.

Your problem is the big stainless coolant pipe. To remove it the plenum, intake manifold and coolant bridge need to come off. You may also need to loosen the oil cooler pipes (and perhaps drain the oil first).

I didn't fancy this and worked out that laid under the car you can reach round and 'hug' the manual gearbox. The E10 torx bolts holding the coolant pipe can be accessed. You do this blind, and in my case there was enough room to access the bolts so the oil cooler lines could be left alone. I'm not saying it was easy, but it was possible.

Changing the coolant pipe O-ring actually wasn't too bad once I had figured out it sat in a groove.

One important point is to remove the bolts from the coolant pipe but not to pull it free whilst underneath - a lot of coolant will come out, even if you have drained the system.