Nope.

Needs Tech2 (or other scan tool to read the codes)......which are:

C0035      Front Left Wheel Sensor Open Circuit
C0035      Front Left Wheel Sensor Incorrect Signal
C0040      Front Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit
C0040      Front Right Wheel Sensor Incorrect Signal
C0045      Rear Left Wheel Sensor Open Circuit
C0045      Rear Left Wheel Sensor Incorrect Signal
C0050      Rear Right Wheel Sensor Open Circuit
C0050      Rear Right Wheel Sensor Incorrect Signal
C0060      Front Left Outlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0065      Front Left Inlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0070      Front Right Outlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0075      Front Right Inlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0080      Rear Left Outlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0085      Rear Left Inlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0090      Rear Right Outlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0095      Rear Right Inlet Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0110      Return Pump Circuit Voltage Low
C0110      Return Pump Circuit Incorrect Signal
C0121      Valve Relay Circuit Malfunction
C0141      Rear Right Traction Control Primary Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0146      Rear Right Traction Control Switchover Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0151      Rear Left Traction Control Primary Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0156      Rear Left Traction Control Switchover Solenoid Valve Circuit Malfunction
C0161      Brake Switch Circuit Open
C0236      No Engine Speed Signal
C0241      Ignition / Injection Cutoff Bad Signal
C0244      Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Input No Signal
C0245      Wheel Sensor Signal Circuit Out Of Nominal Range/Performance
C0550      Replace Electronic Control Unit (ECU)
C0551      Variant Coding Traction Control (TC)
C0800      Battery Voltage Out Of Range

v6coop wrote on 09. Oct 2008 at 13:51:



Just try re-seating the ABS connector a few times.....check the contacts are clean also

Managed to have a look over the weekend. I reseated the plug without the locking mechanism several times before locking it back in position, contacts looked fine. Also cleaned up both the rear wheel sensors and rings on the drive shaft as they were pretty well caked in oil. Still getting the lights. Usual pattern is, start from cold all OK drive 3-4 miles lose speedo get ABS and TC lights on. Sometimes will spring back into life before going off again. Mark - have you moved yet? Would you mind hooking it up the the Tech II again for me please or is this definitive now? Away now till Thursday but will keep an eye out at the forum whist away if I can.

Deffo ABS ECU on way out.  You will find ABS, TC, Speedo, Cruise Control & power sensitve steering will probably pack up.

Solution - replace ECU - either get yours reconned (~£130) or fit 2nd hand (get same part nº from same model & year if poss to avoid needing Tech2).

Barsteward of a job to change (lack of space) but well doable.  Good Luck

If it ends up as an ECU repair or replace .. give BBA Reman a ring on 01634 687222  ... July 2007 they took mine in by courier Monday, tested and phoned with the result by Wednesday AM .. fixed and returned by courier Friday PM ... all for £130 with a 2 year warranty.

Figures might be different now but worth a call ??

Advantage of having your "own" repaired is it removed the need for any "Tech2" matching  

Marks DTM Calib wrote on 13. Oct 2008 at 09:36:

Hey Mark - interested to know outcome of your little look - cheers.

Update

Mark tried to check out the ECU with Tech II but as at the time I had no speedo and the two dreaded orange lights (TC and ABS) not surprisingly Tech II could not communicate with it. Conclusion ECU knackered (dbug gets the prize for the correct diagnosis when I first posted symptoms six weeks ago). I briefly flirted with the idea of a used ECU but when the cost of reprogramming is taken into account I decided a refurb of my own unit was probably the best option and following Marks advice checked out these people who are on the doorstep for me http://ecu-testing.com/. I managed to get the ECU repaired for £100 all in (collected) as they had an offer on ebay at this price rather than £100 + VAT on the website. (If you ring up and tell them you have seen them on ebay at this price you will probably get it for £100, worth a punt) They turned the repair around in less than 24 hours and provided a two year warranty. When I picked it up I asked what caused the failure and was told it was a break in one of the fine wires running to the ECU chip. Refitted the ECU this morning, easier than removal now I know what I am doing (remove battery, top hose and power steering reservoir hose to pump connection and use a flexible shaft Torx bit holder fitted to driver. Also helps if you have small hands and huge patience) I held the screws in place in the ECU casing with a blob of household silicon sealant in each hole, leave an hour to go off then refit. Stops the screws falling out repeatedly. May be easier to put screws onto Torx bit and then then fit into holes whilst holding, but silicon sealant worked for me. First fit the flexible holder to the screws with fingers then fit the driver handle to the flexible shaft and tighten as much as you can.

Many thanks to Mark, dbug et al for advice and helping me to a tidy saving of several hundred pounds compared to Vx price for a new ECU. Not quite so exciting now playing speed camera roulette without a speedo but at least the licence is safer.