is it worth it? I dont mean bigger discs, just better. The car is up for new discs and pads all round and if its worth spending a few quid more for a bit of performance then fair enough. I know Mick Dundee has ebc pads and discs, and have seen the Black Diamond coated(think thats right) discs on lmf web site. I guess the coating is to stop the rust?

I had ebc discs on a bike and they didnt rust at all and gave much more grab/power over stock. Will they give the same results on a car? Or am i just waisting money as the servo does the work? Im thinking vx discs and pads at worst, dont see any point in Brembo etc?

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Chris

Other thing is some of the performance ones (like Mike's) need to warm up to work properly.

Dunno if this matters to you 

good fluid, vx disks and pads provide me more than enough stopping power, and i'm not exactly light footed.

Much racing style driving will soon see em smoking though, as was evident at the york meet 

Unfortunatley i don't drive an Omega, so have no real experiance oftheir brakes, but i'll try my best.

'uprated' pads do work, i've got some Mintex M1144's on my 205 at the mo, and know of countless other uses of them. the main reason you'd go for them is if you feel you need better brakes. the reason i've stuck with just pads and disks, not larger dia or uprated calipers, is i don't like braking hard, so even if i could, i wouldn't. i don't know how that equates to such a big heavy car though.
Main drawbacks are price over motorfactors type pads, possible wear issues-if it's a daily driver to taz up the motorways they may not be worth it, useability-some need to warmed up to work properly, when they do they will be good though, mine squeal when cold, which can be embarasing in built up areas.

As for disks. Most are still some form of iron or non-stainless steel. any coatings quickly dissappear and are therefore pointless, grooves can be good as they help expel gasses that generate under braking, same with drilled, but drilled can raise stress and concerntrate the propogation of cracks. there is no real need for grooved unless you're pushing the brakes to the max, and a good set of plain disks can be just as effective, especially with modern, high quaility pads that generate less gas build up.

As for bike disks not rusting,they'll be Stainless steel. try some cast iron (being a better rotor meduim) and they will be orange, regardless of make.

Hope that's of some help and there's no sucking of eggs.

on my last car (v6 mondeo please dont flame me lol)
i had ebc groved discs and pads, and even though they were very good at stoping the car they were noisy when cold and the pads wear very very quickly if you only use your car around town and are heavy footed 

thanks guys,

the main issue i have with the brakes is the lack of power. They feel dead or wooden as standard, as did my 2.5. press the pedal and not a great deal happens until real pressure is applied. Other people driving my car feel the same, glolf lexus and bmw owners all commented" whats wrong with the breaks?" or similar.

Now i realise this is just part of the omega relaxed driving/passenger orintated design brief and i beleive is more governed by the servo than anything else, but if this can be improved a few percent by spending a few more quid on discs and pads then it would be worth it in my view.

As you probably know i have more experience with bikes than cars, on a bike the first thing i would do is fit ebc HH cintered pads on a road bike(not available on cars it seems) these give more power, last longer than stock, have a copper looking drilled shim on the back to prevent squeel and stop some of the heat transfer to the pistons and hence the fluid preventing fade as well.( provided the master cylinder is half decent,ie. not nissen) its a win all round part except on price.

I would also fit braided steal break lines, Goodridge or similar, to stop the rubber hoses expanding when hot, giving a marked improvment in feel.

But bikes dont have servo assist.


i see no point what so ever in paying more money for "better breaks" on a car that dont work when cold.

Also if they sqeal i will not be pleased. I hate that...

on ebc web site i make it £320 for full car set with grooved fronts and green pads(wont be using those)
£246 with non grooved front discs. both vented.

genuine vx £87.10 front axle
                  £110.56 rear axle
total vx vented discs and pads all round 197.66(trade club price allegedly)

chrisgixer wrote on 26. May 2009 at 12:13:


Genuine VX standard setup when I bought a full set of disks and pads last week total came to something like £160 ex vat on TC, I *think* the fronts were £75 and rears were £85 , or not far off that anyway. Fronts are bigger but cheaper as they come as a kit , pads included. Rears you buy the pads and disks seperately.

I have to say since having the fronts done brake feel has improved massively , but that may be due to having the brake fluid changed as well...

ETA: Dont use redstuff pads on the Omega. I have them on the TVR and when they are cold you might as well open the door and stick your foot on the ground, it would be more effective. For Example If I have been on a motorway run and exit the sliproad at a reasonable lick I can guarantee I wont be stoping at the roundabout , foot to the floor and car coasting along nicely ! The trick is to either approach junctions slowly or make sure you keep the brakes hot. And when I say hit I mean really cooking, if they are just warm they are still poor. Applying them gently on and holding on for the last motorway mile does the trick.

Reds are track day material and if you dont keep them hot you will find them very scary.

ETA: Found the receipt Rear Disks and Pads £72.30 , Front Disks and pads £72.83  total £145.13 + Vat = £170.53

I've used EBC for some years - no problems encountered!