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DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH! (Read 9038 times)
TheBoy
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #30 - 08. May 2011 at 22:35
 
I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.


The fact that the tensioner moves throughout the cycle shows that it moves thoughtout the cycle. Obviously.

The tensioner is ONLY correct at that ONE specific point, and ONLY if the crank and cams are in that very SPECIFIC position.
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Andy B
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #31 - 08. May 2011 at 22:36
 
TheBoy wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:35:
I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....


I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  Huh
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Elite Pete
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #32 - 08. May 2011 at 22:43
 
Darth Loo-knee wrote on 08. May 2011 at 21:49:
Bent valve wrote on 08. May 2011 at 21:46:
Darth Loo-knee wrote on 08. May 2011 at 21:43:
Hope you have not got more than 2 teeth out else good night 24 valves  Huh

I dont think it would be running if it had 24 bent valves Sad


I have driven an Omega with bent valves for about 60 miles. .

I still have a chuckle about that Grin Thumbs Up!
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Bent valve
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #33 - 08. May 2011 at 22:43
 
Andy B wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:36:
TheBoy wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:35:
I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....


I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  Huh

Just agree to disagree then Thumbs Up! For what its worth,  I once watched a mobile mechanic replace a belt kit on a 2.5 vectra, he set it at tdc , put 2pairs of finger grips on the cam pulleys set the tensioner to whatever, and the car ran perfectly. just lucky I guess Grin
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Elite Pete
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #34 - 08. May 2011 at 22:46
 
Bent valve wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:43:
Andy B wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:36:
TheBoy wrote on 08. May 2011 at 22:35:
I need a brickwall to give myself a headache.. ....


I'll share your wall ......... cos I'm feeling the same.  Huh

Just agree to disagree then Thumbs Up! For what its worth,  I once watched a mobile mechanic replace a belt kit on a 2.5 vectra, he set it at tdc , put 2pairs of finger grips on the cam pulleys set the tensioner to whatever, and the car ran perfectly. just lucky I guess Grin

Cowboy on a horse Grin
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V6 Cambelts, tensioners and water pump replaced £235 including parts or supply your own £100 fitted
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hotel21
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #35 - 08. May 2011 at 23:23
 
Thread pruned of un-needed posts.

Please keep on topic.

ta...   Thumbs Up!
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Kevin Wood
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #36 - 08. May 2011 at 23:25
 
We have strayed off topic and are no longer helping the OP.

He needs to refit the cam belt using the proper locking kit and following the correct procedure then determine if the engine has suffered any damage.

Locking
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Jimbob
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #37 - 09. May 2011 at 07:14
 
Unlocked as really not helping OP who needs this thread..

Ok, NO MORE DISCUSSIONS ON YES / NO TO TIMING KIT IN THIS THREAD. (they WILL be deleted)

The car does need its timing checked definately.

BUT youve also stripped / replaced a lot more than that.

You say you had a flashing and solid EML.  Do the pedal trick and post the codes, this could yet be something unrelated to the belt.
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« Last Edit: 09. May 2011 at 07:14 by Jimbob »  
 
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DTC
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #38 - 09. May 2011 at 07:38
 
Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?

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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #39 - 09. May 2011 at 07:51
 
Jimbob wrote on 09. May 2011 at 07:14:
Unlocked as really not helping OP who needs this thread..




Well done Jb Cool - this thread is the essence of the OOF, it's been fascinating and an object lesson in how things can go radically wrong if shortcuts are taken when working on this engine in particular. Thumbs Up! Thumbs Up!

It will also be interesting to see if DTC gets a resolution to his problem.
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Jimbob
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #40 - 09. May 2011 at 08:12
 
DTC wrote on 09. May 2011 at 07:38:
Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?




PLEASE before you undo as much as another bolt, please do a pedal test for fault codes,  car doesnt need to be running, so will get you a known point snapshot before you strip down again and add more unknowns.  (link in my sig if you dont know how  Thumbs Up! )

could really be as simple as one coil pack not connected properly.

(but yes, adjust the timing properly when you get the kit)
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« Last Edit: 09. May 2011 at 08:12 by Jimbob »  
 
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #41 - 09. May 2011 at 08:21
 
To the OP, I'm sure you said in another thread that you've bought the DVD? That explains it very well Thumbs Up!

The crank locking tool will ensure you position the crank correctly. If the timing is out to a point where you can't get the cam locks in, you may have to adjust them individually but wait until you've checked.

If you do have to move the cams independently you must turn the crank back to 60 degrees(?) (someone will confirm that) before TDC to avoid damage.
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Whatever it is... I didn't do it
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Jimbob
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #42 - 09. May 2011 at 09:36
 
Off-Topic replies have been moved to this Topic.
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chrisgixer
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #43 - 09. May 2011 at 09:57
 
DTC needs to check his DTC's if you ask me... (Detected trouble codes) the orange light tells you there's a problem.

The pedal trick will tell you what that problem is without even opening the bonnet!!!

It's true to say "some" engines don't need a locking kit although it's wise to acquire one if available. The omega v engine however is differamt as the cam position needs adjusting to the nearest fraction of a millimeter to get it right. While it's possible to get the belt kit fitted without a locking kit as I did exactly that in my pre forum days, I have since learned from members here that it simply is not possible to do it accurately without a locking kit.

Later 2.6 and 3.2 engines have a fixed pilluy that sets cams 3+4 automatically, so unless the teeth are miles out there then 1+2 might be your issue.
But as JB says, do the pedal trick first, could just be a dodgy plug connection or sumat daft.... Hopefully.

Post is an opinion for the OP.
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chrisgixer
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Re: DONE CAM BELT CHANGE - NOW IT RUNS RUBBISH!
Reply #44 - 09. May 2011 at 10:00
 
DTC wrote on 09. May 2011 at 07:38:
Thanks for the advice guys, I have purchased the locking kit this morning and will start again tonight after work.
I don't think there is any damage - it just runs lumpy.

Do I need to physically move the cams before I lock them out if one is slightly out of line?

Are there any specific markings on the crank so I can make sure it is at TDC?


that's what the crank lock in the locking kit is for. You'll see. Thumbs Up!
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